Lemongrass is used throughout Southeast Asian cuisine, but it’s usually hidden and blends in with other aromatics and seasonings. Here, however, it’s hard to ignore because the reedy stalks are used to skewer ground turkey in a riff on a traditional Cambodian recipe, and their citrusy perfume infuses the meat. With coconut rice and a carrot cucumber slaw on the side, this dish sings out with enticing, enrapturing aromas and flavors.